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Sunday August 15, 1999 Happy Anniversary to Claire and John!! Maybe you should plan to celebrate with us next year since we’ll likely be in the Yellowstone area again! Rainy morning and cold! The rainjacket from Missoula (AM) felt pretty good that morning. Headed to Bookstore for early morning coffee and pastries at Cappy’s. Great French Roast! Developed a plan for the day. Decided to hit Yellowstone Lake since it was raining and the northern streams may be out. Long drive to find out they’re too muddy to fish while we were pretty sure the Lake would be OK. Developed concept of a rod caddie for fishing. Sort of like a golf caddie but would carry the different weight rod/reel combo’s and be sure they are rigged and ready to go. Also would be sure to have the right fly on the line. Lots of possibilities. Think this job might already exist; could be called a guide? (or at least an expensive guide). Thought of another way to hold a great fishing hole would be to have yellow ATF jackets, bullhorn, radio with earphones, and yellow crime scene tape. Headed into Park, went through Norris, and headed toward Yellowstone Lake. Went by Gibbon Falls – pretty cool place (also 58F at 1140 am). Looking at thermal features we thought of a picture of fishing the bubbling hot waters could have legends like: Fishing in the Cauldron for pre-poached trout, A new species of Bake Trout. They come out "ready to eat". Obviously we had too much idle time on our hands. Drove by Gibbon Meadows – looked like really good water. Pleasantly surprised by lack of crowds in Yellowstone Park. Drove over to Yellowstone Lake (7792 feet elevation) and checked out the Fishing Bridge (closed to fishing) and the Ranger info station – not much info. Headed to the West Side of the Lake and drove out to Gull Point. Pretty windy and cool but properly attired it was OK. Winds were up and required some casting finesse to let the wind help you. A black/red wooley bugger (about a size 6) pulled in a couple of 16-18" cutthroat while a green/yellow roostertail (Univ. of Oregon colors) got zip. Surprised us.
Heading back toward West Yellowstone, we elected to stop by Gibbon Meadows and see how the fishing was. We noted that the various areas of the Park seemed to have lots of changing ecosystems and environments with very localized tailoring to the specific environmental conditions. At Gibbon Meadows we had pretty conditions, few people even though we were right next to the road, a well used path along the stream side (indicating that we may not have found a secret fishing location), and small deep stream with good structure. I think we also found some very smart and wary fish since we couldn’t raise any consistent fish for our enjoyment. The fishing conditions were difficult; high winds make presentations difficult. Since the fish apparently were being pounded consistently by people, mistakes in presentation really put the fish down. Went back and hit the Madison River by the West Yellowstone entrance and found some willing fish, although there were substantially fewer bugs and surface action probably due to the much cooler temps (about 58F air temp). Stimulators seem to be the fly du jour.
Dinner at Bulwinkles (about a 15 min wait on Sunday evening). Bar was full. Lots of aging motorcyclists try to recapture the Peter Fonda images from Easy Rider. Kind of fun to watch. No serious biker types of which to steer clear. Nice to know Bulwinkles is open for dinner until 11 p.m. Monday August 16, 1999 Up in the morning and over to Cappy’s for French Roast coffee and hanging with the locals. Not sure of the overnight temps but there was frost on the car roofs in our hotel parking lot. Sheesh..it’s Aug. 16! (but around 7000 feet!) Skies are blue and not a cloud in sight (just like Seattle). Over coffee, we came up with some brain storming ideas on the need to be able to see your fly on the water when the light is low or at the wrong angle. JR called Judy B at Jackson Hole but Jay won’t be back until Wed. night. Jay had recommended Sode Butte Creek as a place to try when we were in that section of the Park. It proved true as JR caught the largest trout of his illustrious and decorated career there! Visited Arrick’s Fly Shop and picked up some terrestrials and beetles. Guides were said to have seen color in Lamar, Slough Creek, and Soda Creek yesterday due to the rains. Gardner River seemed to be OK. The streams could be clearing today since while they muddy fast, they also clear fast. Decided to go north and check out that end of the Park. Picked up a thermos of Joe to Go and off we went. Found paving of road going on just inside West entrance to the Park – lovely. Elk by the Madison; several cows had young calves with them. People seemed to be getting real close to the critters to take pictures – seemed hazardous. Also noted some of the ubiquitous Harley operators had jackets on labeling themselves as being from the German contingent. They, of course, did have a sidecar on their hog. Park really didn’t seem as crowded as we remember from last year. More Elk next to Gibbon River above the Falls. Crossed Dunraven Pass 8895 feet. Sweeping views showing extensive fire damage from the 1988 fires. Saw 2 cow moose past the pass by Antelope Creek. Came up to Tower Falls area and noted huge basalt columns on hillsides – very cliff-like. Lighter colored columns than in the Columbia River basin - walls were vertical pretty much all the way down to the Yellowstone River, which was flowing at the base of the cliffs. Stopped by Roosevelt Lodge. Prices for staying were pretty reasonable and had a nice rustic log cabin like dining room. Talked with a fellow and his wife (original equipment I would speculate – likely not a trophy wife) who parked next to us in their shiny new Corvette. They had just picked it up at the delivery center in Bowling Green and were driving it across the country back to their home. Unfortunately they live in Ketchikan Alaska which has, I’m told, a total of 24 miles of roads. Some place to have a Corvette. Mid-life crisis or just a lot of extra money? Picked up some snacks and food for lunch and then off to the holy waters! Roosevelt Lodge Soda Butte Creek Soda Butte Creek
Drove through Lamar River drainage valley which is a huge grassed plain with the Lamar River running though it. Not much elevation drop so River looked very well behaved. Wide open spaces. Lots of bison. Passed the Yellowstone National Institute (?); a rustic place with cabins where they hold various classes about the Park and its ecosystem. Supported I think by the Yellowstone Foundation. Passed the cutoff to Slough Creek and the junction of where the Lamar River and Soda Butte Creek come together at the eastern end of the valley. Soda Butte Creek – runs about ¼ mile from road and has great access along its length for several miles. There is a Soda Butte itself that is a 20+ feet tall deposit of minerals formed by one of the vents from underground. Has a strong sulfurous odor that fortunately does not extend any significant distance and had no affect on our fishing quality experiences on the creek. Soda Butte Creek here is a small stream (maybe 15+/- feet wide) with classic riffle-pool S-shaped flows. Very easy water to read and fish were rising!! Caught lots of fish on Chernobyl hoppers, rises to stimulators (yellow body). Lots of hoppers out in the flora next to the creek. Temps in the mid to high 70’s; clear and sunny; wet waded the stream. Water had a slight tinge so that it was not crystal clear and the fish were not overly spooky. They did require a reasonable presentation and approach since they would not rise again for a while if they saw you. Drew fish up from every likely place. Fished primarily between 2:30 to 5:30 p.m.
Headed back down the road and stopped and fished the Lamar below the bridge where it crosses the highway. Started in a boulder strewn section and then hiked downstream to the area where the boulders ended and the river was wider and smoother. Spooked a flock of gargantuan Canadian geese – felt like I was in a scene from Jurassic Park and I expected to see velociraptors at any time! Finally headed out at 7:45 p.m. to go back to West Yellowstone. Great Day for everyone was definitely the spirit!! Heading back we found some asphalt fumaroles from the road repaving construction company. Heading back at dusk we saw oodles of elk along Obsidian Creek, Indian Creek and related areas. Made a brief stop along Madison River on way back to experience the outdoors just like the bears do. Headed over to Mountain Mike’s for dinner. AB enjoyed the fine all-you-can-eat ribs. I got his corn! Had a brew called Fat Tire. I liked it. |
